This project has three basic parts: two wing walls and a center pole with the plumbing attached. All materials are available at the Home Depot.
Frame and sides :
Each wing wall has a 6-foot-long corrugated metal roof panel that’s screwed to a frame made of 2-by-4 lumber.
Each frame requires two 90-inch side pieces and four 26½-inch crosspieces.
We used redwood for the frames, which was protected with a water-based sealer prior to attaching the panels. A less expensive option is pressure-treated lumber.
Panel options include clear, frosted, or colored fiberglass roofing, aluminum flashing, or colorful oil or acrylic cloth.
Top view :
- The wing walls attach to one 8-foot-long pressure-treated peeler-core log outfitted with 1/2-inch galvanized metal piping, a faucet, and a showerhead.
- This showers uses only cold-water lines from a garden hose and is not intended for long showers, so we have only built simple drainage.
- Water will flow into the gravel and soil underfoot, watering your plants while it cools you off.
The plumbing :
- Lay out and assemble the galvanized piping (see materials list) using nylon plumbing tape at each joint. Do not add the hose coupling at the end of the 8-inch bottom pipe yet.
- Center and drill a 3/4-inch-diameter hole through the pole 78 inches from the top.
- Slip the short leg of pipe through the hole, then center the pipe and faucet on the pole and secure it with C-shaped pipe hangers.
- Add the hose coupling and then hook it up to the garden hose. Pressure-test for leaks.
Find a location for the shower. We placed it on a gravel pad to help drainage and also added concrete pavers to stand on.
Dig a 12-inch-deep hole for the center shower pole. Place it so the faucet handle will project outward at 45° between the wing walls.
Set the wing walls at square to each other and attach them to the pole (with three 12-inch screws each) so their legs only go 6 inches into the ground.
Check verticality with a level before tamping and compacting soil.
Frame and sides :
Each frame requires two 90-inch side pieces and four 26½-inch crosspieces.
We used redwood for the frames, which was protected with a water-based sealer prior to attaching the panels. A less expensive option is pressure-treated lumber.
Panel options include clear, frosted, or colored fiberglass roofing, aluminum flashing, or colorful oil or acrylic cloth.
Top view :
- This showers uses only cold-water lines from a garden hose and is not intended for long showers, so we have only built simple drainage.
- Water will flow into the gravel and soil underfoot, watering your plants while it cools you off.
The plumbing :
- Center and drill a 3/4-inch-diameter hole through the pole 78 inches from the top.
- Slip the short leg of pipe through the hole, then center the pipe and faucet on the pole and secure it with C-shaped pipe hangers.
- Add the hose coupling and then hook it up to the garden hose. Pressure-test for leaks.
Find a location for the shower. We placed it on a gravel pad to help drainage and also added concrete pavers to stand on.
Dig a 12-inch-deep hole for the center shower pole. Place it so the faucet handle will project outward at 45° between the wing walls.
Set the wing walls at square to each other and attach them to the pole (with three 12-inch screws each) so their legs only go 6 inches into the ground.
Check verticality with a level before tamping and compacting soil.